Spotlight On Rías Altas

The Rías Altas are on the northern coast of Galicia between the towns of Ribadeo and Ferrol. It isn't as developed as the west coast but nevertheless you will find some interesting fishing towns and some lovely beaches.

Ribadeo is a fishing town on the estuary of the river Eo, which forms a natural boundary with the neighbouring region of Asturias. Just north of the town lies the 18th Century fort of San Damián. This has now been turned into a museum. Just outside Ribadeo you will find the beach at As Catedrais (The Cathedrals). So called because of the awesome rock formations found on the beach which look like Gothic buildings and arches. Carry on westwards and there are some nice little beaches. If you're into surfing then the beaches at Praia de Lóngara and Fontela are your best bet.

6 miles west of Ribadeo is the small fishing town of Foz which also has some nice beaches. Nearby you will find the Romanesque Iglesia de San Martín de Mondoñedo. This was once a cathedral and houses the tomb of San Gonzalo.

The next port of call is the town of Viveiro. This is a pretty and very popular town in the Rías Altas, with some good hotels and restaurants. It boasts the best Easter procession in Galicia, enacting all the stations of the cross via candlelight. Other festivities include the town's patron saint of San Roque and Nuestra Señora held on the week of 15 August.

You can still see some fragments of its medieval walls and of note are the Romanesque Iglesia de Santa Maria del Campo and Iglesia de San Francisco.

As we carry on westwards the coast becomes more rugged with some excellent views. We pass the small fishing village of O Barqueiro. It's a peaceful spot to stop at and from here. about an hour's walk through the eucalyptus forest will take you to Punto de Bares, the most northernmost point in Spain.

Continuing our journey we reach the fishing port of Ortigueira. This is transformed in mid July for the massive Celtic World International Festival. The festival is in it's 29th year and features artists from all over the Celtic world including Wales, Ireland, Scotland and Brittany in France.

A short distance to west is the fishing port of Cariño. From here take a walk northwards to Cabo Ortegal with it's good views and lighthouse. Further westwards Garita de Herbeira is a worthwhile visit. A desolate arch of granite cliffs pounded by waves and weather.

Our next stop is the pretty village of Cedeira. Here you will find some excellent beaches, a small fishing harbour and some spendid seafood. Some 8 miles to the north, perched above the wild Atlantic Ocean is the 12th Century monastery of San Andrés de Teixido. This is a Galician shrine that once belonged to the Knights of Malta. They brought back a relic of St Andrew from the Holy Land. St Andrew is revered here and superstitious locals will often bring offerings for various wishes. There is a well attended pilgrimage on 8 September. Some will make the journey in coffins to give thanks for narrow escapes. It is also customary for the pilgrams to throw breadcrumbs into the nearby spring. Legend has it if your crumb floats, your wish will be fulfilled.

We finally end our journey at the naval port of Ferrol. It was from here that some of the ships in the Spanish Armada set sail from. Although it's glory days ended with the Peninsular War it's still an important port and the navy is still very much in evidence here. Most of Ferrol is just an urban sprawl but in the central Magdalena district you will find some elegant houses with glass balconies as well as the white-washed Iglesia de San Xulián.

It's worth mentioning the attractive medieval town of Pontedeume, some 6 miles south of Ferrol. There is an impressive 14th Century tower built by the Andrade family who were the local lairds. Further in the hills is the the monastery of Caaveiro.